Japanese Gilt Silver Thread and Brocade Kinran Evening Bag
Jewelry and Accessories (Evening Bag/Miniaudiere subclass) · Unknown Japanese workshop, likely originating from the Kyoto textile district (Nishijin). Reputation for high-end ceremonial and luxury accessories utilizing traditional silk and precious metal weaving techniques.
Pattern: Traditional Kinran / Nishijin-ori pattern with geometric lozenge (Hishi) and stylized abstract floral/cloud motifs.
Type
Jewelry and Accessories (Evening Bag/Miniaudiere subclass)
Maker
Unknown Japanese workshop, likely originating from the Kyoto textile district (Nishijin). Reputation for high-end ceremonial and luxury accessories utilizing traditional silk and precious metal weaving techniques.
Material
Woven silk with metallic Gilt Silver (Vermeil) threads. The frame and clasp appear to be gold-washed silver or high-quality brass. Interior typically lined in silk or satin.
Dimensions
Estimated at 18cm width, 15cm height (excluding handle), weight approximately 250-350 grams including internal lining.
Description
This exquisite Japanese evening bag is a testament to the intersection of fine jewelry and textile art. Constructed using the Kinran method, it features silver-gilt threads woven into silk to create a shimmering, multidimensional surface. The structural frame is topped with a delicate filigree spherical clasp, which echoes the intricate 'ball' motifs found in traditional Japanese metalwork. The pattern is a sophisticated arrangement of geometric and abstract elements, providing a look that is both timelessly cultural and modernly elegant.
Key Features
Filigree 'mari' ball clasp; metallic-wrapped braided handle; heavy use of gold-wash over silver threads (Vermeil effect); traditional lozenge weave background.
Material & Composition
Woven silk with metallic Gilt Silver (Vermeil) threads. The frame and clasp appear to be gold-washed silver or high-quality brass. Interior typically lined in silk or satin.
Finish & Decoration
Textured brocade weave with gold and silver leaf-wrapped threads. Features a Japanese Art Deco-influenced geometric lozenge base pattern with superimposed diagonal 'shippo' or 'cloud' bands in varying shades of champagne, rose, and gold.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Marks are likely concealed on the interior frame lip or clasp mechanism; typical Japanese marks for this era would be 'Silver' or 'Gin' (銀) if sterling, often accompanied by a maker's hallmark in a small cartouche.
Construction Details
Hand-loomed brocade fabric stretched over a rigid internal support; the metal frame is machine-stamped with hand-fitted hinges and a tension-set clasp.
Functional Features
Kiss-lock 'spherical' filigree clasp; hinged frame opening; internal slip pocket; braided metallic stiff-loop handle.
Handle & Grip Details
Braided metallic coil handle made of wrapped silk core and silver-gilt wire, attached to the frame via circular jump rings and square-set bails.
Craftsmanship Details
Superior textile craftsmanship; the alignment of the pattern across the frame's closure indicates high-end production. The clasp shows fine open-work filigree typically found in jewelry-grade accessories.
Authentication Indicators
The density of the weave and the specific weight of the 'cold' metallic threads suggest genuine precious metal wire rather than synthetic lurex. High-quality Japanese frames from this era often use silver-based alloys.
Origin & Manufacturing
Made in Japan, likely Kyoto. Reflects the tradition of Nishijin-ori weaving which incorporates real gold and silver foil into threads.
Era & Period
Late Showa Period (c. 1960s-1980s). Design reflects a blend of mid-century aesthetics with traditional Japanese textile craftsmanship.
Age Estimate
Circa 1970. Based on the clasp style, the braided handle construction, and the specific tonal hues of the metallic threads.
Cultural Significance
Often used for formal occasions such as weddings or tea ceremonies (to accompany a Kimono), these bags represent the modernization of traditional Japanese craft into Western-style silhouettes during the post-war luxury boom.
Condition Notes
Excellent condition. Minimal fraying of metallic threads; clasp is secure; gilding on the frame shows light oxidation consistent with age but no major wear-through.
Value Estimate
$200 - $450 USD. Factors include the purity of the silver/gold in the thread and the prestige of the specific textile house if identified by an interior label.
Care & Maintenance
Never use liquid silver polish on the fabric; use a soft, dry cotton cloth to wipe the frame. Store in a breathable cotton or acid-free tissue wrap to prevent the silk from shattering and the silver threads from tarnishing.
Similar Pieces
Often compared to 'Whiting & Davis' metal mesh bags or 'Tiffany & Co.' silk clutches, though the unique Japanese brocade technique distinguishes it from Western counterparts.
Interesting Facts
The 'shippo' (Seven Treasures) and lozenge patterns used here were historically reserved for the nobility and high-ranking clergy in Japan, signifying wealth and longevity.