Organic Brutalist Sterling Silver Vermeil Cuff Bracelet with Faux Pearls and Green Glass
Jewelry - Cuff Bracelet / Bangle · Unattributed / Artisanal. The style is reminiscent of 1960s-70s Brutalist designers like Robert Larin or early David-Andersen organic series, but the finish suggests a commercial boutique manufacture often found in Taxco or European mid-century markets.
Pattern: Organic Brutalist Driftwood/Lava Pattern; likely a limited run or unique studio piece. No specific catalog pattern name is standard for this aesthetic.
Type
Jewelry - Cuff Bracelet / Bangle
Maker
Unattributed / Artisanal. The style is reminiscent of 1960s-70s Brutalist designers like Robert Larin or early David-Andersen organic series, but the finish suggests a commercial boutique manufacture often found in Taxco or European mid-century markets.
Material
Sterling Silver base (925) with a heavy Vermeil (gold-over-silver) finish. Inclusions are likely faux pearls (mabé or blister style) and green glass cabochons imitating emeralds.
Dimensions
Estimated diameter: 5.5cm to 6.5cm (standard cuff size). Width at center: approx. 3.5cm. Estimated weight: 45-60 grams, typical for heavy cast silver jewelry of this period.
Description
This striking cuff bracelet is a masterclass in Brutalist organic design. Featuring a 'molten' gold-over-silver surface that mimics natural driftwood or volcanic rock, the piece is centered by a triad of pearls and flanked by vivid green accents. The bottom of the central motif displays a classical scallop-shell form, grounding the chaotic upper textures in traditional goldsmithing imagery. It is a bold, sculptural piece intended as a statement of avant-garde 20th-century fashion.
Key Features
High-relief 'melted' texture, shell-motif base, pavé-like clusters of pearls and green glass, heavy vermeil application, and sculptural lost-wax construction.
Material & Composition
Sterling Silver base (925) with a heavy Vermeil (gold-over-silver) finish. Inclusions are likely faux pearls (mabé or blister style) and green glass cabochons imitating emeralds.
Finish & Decoration
High-relief organic texture with gold plating (vermeil). Techniques include lost-wax casting, heavy oxidation in crevices to emphasize depth, and a shell-form base section (scallop motif). Stylistically bridges late Art Nouveau with Mid-Century Brutalism.
Hallmarks & Stamps
None visible in the primary image; however, such pieces frequently carry a '925' mark on the inner band or a maker's stamp near the hinge/clasp. The weight and luster are consistent with gold-plated sterling silver.
Construction Details
Lost-wax casting (cire perdue). The highly irregular, pitted, and 'molten' surface indicates a wax model was sculpted or manipulated while soft. The band appears to be a separate cast piece soldered to the central decorative floral/organic element.
Functional Features
Hinged opening with a pressure-fit clasp or tongue-and-groove closure. The central shell-like motif acts as the anchor for the decorative top. Integrated bezel settings for the pearls and gemstones.
Handle & Grip Details
N/A (Wearable item). The interior of the band is smooth and polished for comfort, contrasting with the jagged exterior texture.
Craftsmanship Details
Hand-sculpted wax original leads to a high-quality cast. The transition between the shell motif and the organic 'lava' texture shows high artistic skill, though the stone settings are functional rather than fine-jewelry grade.
Authentication Indicators
The weight-to-volume ratio is consistent with silver rather than base metal. The wear pattern of the gold plating at contact points is typical for vintage vermeil. The casting method is consistent with 1970s artisan jewelry.
Origin & Manufacturing
Likely manufactured in Mexico (Taxco) or Italy. Both regions excelled in heavy vermeil silver jewelry during the 1970s, often combining organic casting with glass and faux pearl accents.
Era & Period
Mid-Century Modern / Brutalist Era (c. 1960-1975). The design reflects the 'Back to Nature' movement and the architectural Brutalist trend emphasizing raw, unrefined textures.
Age Estimate
Circa 1965-1975. The wear to the gold plating and the specific style of the pearl coatings (showing some age-related peeling or dullness) support this period.
Cultural Significance
Represents the shift in mid-20th-century luxury where 'artistic expression' began to be valued as highly as precious stone clarity, leading to the rise of 'wearable art' galleries.
Condition Notes
Good to Very Good. Significant wear to the vermeil (gold plating) on high points, revealing the silver beneath. Faux pearls show surface dullness and potential nacre loss. Minor tarnish in deep recesses. Structure appears sound.
Value Estimate
$150 - $350 USD depending on hallmark identification and specific market (higher in boutique vintage jewelry galleries; lower in general estate auctions).
Care & Maintenance
Do not use silver dips or harsh abrasives as they will strip the remaining gold plating. Clean with a very soft, damp cloth. Store in a soft pouch away from other jewelry to prevent scratching the pearls.
Similar Pieces
Often confused with 19th-century Etruscan Revival (which uses granulation) or pure Art Nouveau (which is more fluid). Competitors include Kenneth Jay Lane (costume) or Bjorn Weckstrom for Lapponia (higher-end fine art silver).
Interesting Facts
The Brutalist jewelry movement was a reaction against the clean, clinical lines of early 20th-century modernism, seeking instead to highlight the 'soul' of the metal through intentionally irregular and rugged forms.