Art Deco Geometric Sterling Silver and Paste Bar Brooch
Jewelry (Bar Brooch / Lapel Pin) · Unattributed European or American Workshop. Characteristics suggest a commercial jewelry manufacturer specializing in Art Deco revival or late-period Deco costume jewelry, likely marketed through department stores.
Pattern: Geometric Steps & Greek Key Pattern; consistent with the 'Egyptian Revival' and 'Machine Age' aesthetics of the 1920s-1930s.
Type
Jewelry (Bar Brooch / Lapel Pin)
Maker
Unattributed European or American Workshop. Characteristics suggest a commercial jewelry manufacturer specializing in Art Deco revival or late-period Deco costume jewelry, likely marketed through department stores.
Material
Likely Sterling Silver (.925) or a high-quality silver-tone base metal with rhodium plating. Features glass 'paste' stones (imitation diamonds) and synthetic or glass blue sapphires. Note the dark oxidation typical of silver alloys.
Dimensions
Standard bar brooch sizing: approximately 50-60mm (2-2.5 inches) in length and 15-20mm in width at the crossbar. Estimated weight is 8-12 grams.
Description
A striking example of Art Deco geometric design, this bar brooch features a cross-axial layout reminiscent of industrial architecture. The vertical body is flanked by rectangular 'wings,' decorated with a series of stepped, maze-like patterns known as Greek keys. The piece is encrusted with white paste stones to simulate diamonds, bordered by deep blue baguette stones that provide a stark, elegant contrast. The dark patina highlights the intricate milgrain detailing, making it a powerful statement piece for a lapel or scarf.
Key Features
Symmetrical stepped design, cobalt blue baguette borders, milgrain texture, and a prominent central round-cut paste stone.
Material & Composition
Likely Sterling Silver (.925) or a high-quality silver-tone base metal with rhodium plating. Features glass 'paste' stones (imitation diamonds) and synthetic or glass blue sapphires. Note the dark oxidation typical of silver alloys.
Finish & Decoration
Oxidized antique finish featuring milgrain edging, geometric openwork, and 'pierced' metalwork. The decorative style is classic Art Deco with a focus on symmetry, verticality, and stepped architectural forms.
Hallmarks & Stamps
None visible in the photo. Expected marks would be on the reverse or the pin stem, likely a '925' or 'STERLING' stamp, possibly accompanied by a maker's mark within a cartouche.
Construction Details
Cast metal construction with hand-set or grain-set stones. The piece displays 'open-back' or 'lattice' work on the front facings to allow light through the stones. Likely mass-produced using die-striking or centrifugal casting.
Functional Features
Standard pin-and-clasp mechanism on the reverse (likely a C-clasp or safety trombone clasp). Central bezel-set focal stone serves as the visual anchor.
Handle & Grip Details
N/A - Jewelry item. The pin stem on the reverse acts as the attachment point to fabric.
Craftsmanship Details
Good quality commercial work. The milgrain (beaded edges) is crisp, and the geometric alignment of the baguettes shows careful assembly despite being a non-precious-gem item.
Authentication Indicators
The style of setting (grain setting) and the type of wear on the faceted edges of the glass stones are consistent with the estimated age. No modern 'laser' marks or casting seams are visible in the primary image.
Origin & Manufacturing
Likely United States (Providence, RI) or Germany (Pforzheim), both of which were major hubs for high-quality silver and costume jewelry during the mid-20th century.
Era & Period
Art Deco (1920-1940) or Art Deco Revival (1960s-1980s). The specific use of stepped 'Ziggurat' patterns and sapphire-colored baguettes is quintessential high-Deco design inspired by the discovery of King Tut's tomb in 1922.
Age Estimate
Circa 1930-1950. The stone cuts and the heavy oxidation of the metal suggest early-to-mid-century production rather than a modern contemporary replica.
Cultural Significance
Represents the democratization of luxury during the interwar period. This specific 'bar' form was popular because it suited the new, flatter silhouettes of women's fashion in the 1920s and 30s.
Condition Notes
Good antique condition. There is significant oxidation/tarnish which defines the details well. Some stones show 'greying' or 'deadening' (loss of foil backing or dirt accumulation), common in older paste jewelry. Structure appears sound.
Value Estimate
$75 - $150 USD, depending on the presence of hallmarks and the condition of the pin mechanism.
Care & Maintenance
Do not submerge in water; liquid can seep behind the stones and ruin the foil backing. Clean with a dry, soft silver cloth. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners.
Similar Pieces
Often confused with platinum/diamond originals by Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels. Key differences include the use of silver instead of platinum and glass 'paste' instead of genuine gemstones.
Interesting Facts
During the 1920s, as precious platinum and diamond jewelry reached peak prices, 'fine costume' jewelry in sterling silver and paste became a way for the middle class to emulate the 'flapper' style seen in high society.