Vintage Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. Black Onyx and Mabe Pearl Earrings
Jewelry (Earrings) · Tiffany & Co., designed by Paloma Picasso. Introduced to Tiffany in 1980, Picasso is the daughter of Pablo Picasso and became world-renowned for her bold, colorful, and sculptural jewelry designs.
Pattern: Paloma Picasso Signature Collection; often characterized by large cabochons and sculptural bezels. Production status is typically retired or limited to vintage markets.
Type
Jewelry (Earrings)
Maker
Tiffany & Co., designed by Paloma Picasso. Introduced to Tiffany in 1980, Picasso is the daughter of Pablo Picasso and became world-renowned for her bold, colorful, and sculptural jewelry designs.
Material
Sterling Silver (.925) or 18k Yellow Gold bezel (pending hallmark verification), Black Onyx cabochons, and Mabe or Cultured Pearls. The visible gold rim suggests it is likely a mixed-metal tiffany piece (Sterling with 18k accents) or solid 18k gold.
Dimensions
Approximately 15mm to 20mm in diameter. Weight is estimated at 10-15 grams total for the pair depending on the metal thickness and whether they are clip-on or post-backs.
Description
A striking pair of designer earrings featuring the high-contrast aesthetic of Paloma Picasso. The center holds a lustrous white pearl with pink overtones, encased in a thin gold bezel, which is set against a deep, light-absorbing black onyx surround. This ‘target’ design creates an elegant yet powerful visual profile suitable for both professional and evening wear.
Key Features
Concentric ring design, high-contrast black and white palette, Paloma Picasso signature script (reverse), and substantial bezel-set stones.
Material & Composition
Sterling Silver (.925) or 18k Yellow Gold bezel (pending hallmark verification), Black Onyx cabochons, and Mabe or Cultured Pearls. The visible gold rim suggests it is likely a mixed-metal tiffany piece (Sterling with 18k accents) or solid 18k gold.
Finish & Decoration
Polished mirror finish on the onyx and metal bezel. The design is a classic 'Bullseye' or concentric circle motif featuring a central pearl surrounded by a gold rim and a wide polished black onyx border. Stylistically, this fits the Bold Minimalism of the 1980s.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Typically stamped on the reverse with '©Paloma Picasso', 'TIFFANY & CO.', and fineness marks such as '925' for sterling silver or '750' for 18k gold.
Construction Details
Cast and hand-finished. The pearls are likely peg-set with jeweler's adhesive into the central gold bezel, which is then friction-fitted or soldered to the silver/gold backing that holds the onyx.
Functional Features
Earring backs: likely clip-on or large butterfly clutch for posts to support the weight of the semi-precious stones.
Handle & Grip Details
N/A for jewelry. Earring findings are typically solid sterling or 14k/18k gold for hypoallergenic purposes.
Craftsmanship Details
Master-level casting and stone-setting. The transition between the pearl, gold rim, and onyx is seamless, indicating high-precision lapidary work typical of Tiffany's prestige manufacturers.
Authentication Indicators
Hallmark depth and font consistency with Tiffany & Co. authentic stamps; high-quality stone setting with no visible glue or gaps; high-polish finish on the onyx. Non-branded 'knock-offs' often use plastic instead of real onyx.
Origin & Manufacturing
United States (New York) or Italy (where many of Paloma\'s high-end pieces were manufactured for Tiffany).
Era & Period
The 1980s (Late 20th Century). This period was defined by 'Power Dressing' and large, bold statement jewelry that utilized high-contrast materials like onyx and gold.
Age Estimate
Circa 1985-1995 based on the style, material combination, and peak popularity of the Mabe pearl trend.
Cultural Significance
Captured the 'Power Jewelry' trend for women in the 1980s workforce; symbolized sophisticated luxury that transitioned away from traditional floral motifs into geometric abstraction.
Condition Notes
Excellent to Very Good. The onyx appears free of chips; the pearls show good luster without visible nacre peeling. Slight surface scratches may exist on the metal reverse. Grade: Excellent.
Value Estimate
$400 - $1,200 USD depending on whether the metal bezel is 18k gold or gold-plated silver, and if the original Tiffany pouch/box is present.
Care & Maintenance
Clean with a soft damp cloth only. Do not use silver dips or ultrasonic cleaners as they can damage the porous pearl and loosen the adhesive holding the onyx. Buff metal with a jewelry polishing cloth.
Similar Pieces
Tiffany & Co. 'Black Kelp' earrings or Georg Jensen 'Moonlight' collection pieces. Both use dark stones but differ in their organic vs. geometric layout.
Interesting Facts
Paloma Picasso began her career in 1968 as a costume designer before joining Tiffany in 1980. Her work is held in the permanent collections of the Smithsonian Institution and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.