Vintage Ruby and Diamond Spray Brooch in Sterling Silver
Jewelry (Brooch/Pin) · Unidentified workshop; likely a mid-century boutique jeweler. The design reflects the high-glamour aesthetics of companies like Harry Winston or Van Cleef & Arpels, though executed in silver rather than platinum or gold.
Pattern: Mid-Century Floral Spray / Cocktail Brooch
Type
Jewelry (Brooch/Pin)
Maker
Unidentified workshop; likely a mid-century boutique jeweler. The design reflects the high-glamour aesthetics of companies like Harry Winston or Van Cleef & Arpels, though executed in silver rather than platinum or gold.
Material
Sterling Silver with rhodium plating to prevent tarnish; set with pear-cut synthetic or natural rubies and tapered/straight baguette and round brilliant cubic zirconia or white spinels. Metal shows a bright, white finish characteristic of high-quality silver jewelry.
Dimensions
Estimated at 5.5 cm in width and 4.5 cm in height; approximate weight 15-20 grams. This is a substantial 'cocktail' sized piece intended for outerwear or heavy fabrics.
Description
An exuberant and sophisticated floral spray brooch, this piece captures the optimism of the mid-20th century. It features a swirling arrangement of silver ribbons pavé-set with icy white baguette stones, offset by a vibrant crown of pear-shaped rubies. The center is anchored by a brilliant cluster of white stones, mimicking a blooming flower head. Its scale and brilliance make it a classic statement piece for evening wear.
Key Features
Dynamic 'ribbon' motif, mix of baguette and pear-shaped cuts, high-contrast ruby and white stone aesthetic, and rhodium-plated silver construction.
Material & Composition
Sterling Silver with rhodium plating to prevent tarnish; set with pear-cut synthetic or natural rubies and tapered/straight baguette and round brilliant cubic zirconia or white spinels. Metal shows a bright, white finish characteristic of high-quality silver jewelry.
Finish & Decoration
Polished rhodium finish with a high-shine mirror polish. The decoration includes prong-set pear rubies, channel-set baguette stones, and a cluster-set center of round white stones. The style is late Art Deco/Mid-Century 'Hollywood Regency'.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Likely marked '925' or 'STERLING' on the reverse pin stem or the back plate. European pieces may bear a small maker's mark or assay stamp, though none are visible in the provided image.
Construction Details
Cast and hand-assembled. The piece features a complex multi-part construction where the different 'ribbon' sections are soldered together. Stones are set individually by hand to ensure security.
Functional Features
Standard pinstem with a safety trombone or rolling C-clasp on the reverse. The curvature of the 'stems' allows the piece to sit slightly raised off the fabric for depth.
Handle & Grip Details
None; however, the pin mechanism serves as the functional attachment. The pin is likely made of nickel or steel for tension and strength.
Craftsmanship Details
High-quality boutique craftsmanship. The use of channel-set baguettes requires significant skill compared to simple prong-set costume jewelry. The symmetry and fluid movement of the design indicate a skilled jeweler.
Authentication Indicators
Hallmarks on the reverse (if present), construction weight, and the crispness of the stone settings. Synthetic rubies were common in silver jewelry of this period; natural stones are rarer in silver mounts.
Origin & Manufacturing
Likely United States or Western Europe (Italy or Germany). These regions were famous for high-end silver 'costume' jewelry that mimicked precious fine jewelry during the mid-20th century.
Era & Period
Mid-Century Modern / Retro Period (c. 1945-1960). The 'ballerina' style baguette settings and floral spray motif were highly popular during this era of post-war glamour.
Age Estimate
Circa 1950-1965. The use of tapered baguettes and the specific pear-cut ruby arrangement are diagnostic of this timeframe.
Cultural Significance
Represents the 'Cocktail Culture' of the 1950s where large, flamboyant jewelry was used to display status at social gatherings. Brooches were the primary accessory for the tailored suits and gowns of the era.
Condition Notes
Very Good condition. Stones appear secure and intact. Minor surface scratching on the silver reverse may be present. No visible missing stones or significant tarnish due to the rhodium plating.
Value Estimate
$150 - $350 USD depending on whether the stones are high-quality glass, synthetic/lab-grown, or natural, and whether a designer mark is found on the reverse.
Care & Maintenance
Clean with a soft, lint-free cloth. Avoid silver 'dips' as they can damage the foil backing or the finish of costume stones. Store in a padded box to avoid scratching the rhodium layer.
Similar Pieces
Marcel Boucher or Trifari 'Sterling' line brooches. While those are often designer-signed, the construction style and stone layout are very similar.
Interesting Facts
During the 1940s and 50s, many famous jewelry houses created 'silver' versions of their platinum designs due to metal shortages during and after WWII, leading to a golden age of high-quality sterling silver jewelry.