Edwardian Sterling Silver and Guilloché Enamel Compact or Cigarette Case
Cigarette Case / Compact · Unknown English or Continental maker (marks obscured), similar in style to makers like Henry Clifford Davis or Turner & Simpson. English workshops in Birmingham were renowned for high-quality enamel work in the early 20th century.
Pattern: Guilloché Enamel over Engine-Turned Ground; Cobalt Blue and White Border theme.
Type
Cigarette Case / Compact
Maker
Unknown English or Continental maker (marks obscured), similar in style to makers like Henry Clifford Davis or Turner & Simpson. English workshops in Birmingham were renowned for high-quality enamel work in the early 20th century.
Material
Sterling Silver (.925) with vitreous glass enamel. The interior may be silver gilt (vermeil) to prevent corrosion from friction or silver exposure.
Dimensions
Estimated at 6cm x 6cm (2.5 inches square). Typical weight for this size is between 60 to 90 grams depending on silver gauge and enamel thickness.
Description
An elegant example of early 20th-century personal luxury, this square case features a stunning field of deep cobalt blue enamel. The underlying silver has been engraved with a repetitive wave pattern that catches the light through the translucent enamel, creating a shimmering effect. The white enamel border provides a crisp, neoclassical contrast to the rich blue center.
Key Features
High-quality guilloché work, intact translucent enamel, and the distinctive white 'frame' enamel border which is a signature of refined European workshops.
Material & Composition
Sterling Silver (.925) with vitreous glass enamel. The interior may be silver gilt (vermeil) to prevent corrosion from friction or silver exposure.
Finish & Decoration
Cobalt blue translucent enamel over a wavy engine-turned (guilloché) background, surrounded by a thin white enamel border. The silver frame shows moderate tarnish (sulfide patina) and mirror-polish edges.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Small stamps are visible on the top silver lip of the opening mechanism. While blurred, they likely include a maker's mark, 'Sterling' or the Lion Passant, and possibly a date letter or city mark (e.g., Anchor for Birmingham).
Construction Details
Machine engine-turned interior ground, vitreous enamel fired in a kiln, hinged two-part construction with a thumb-piece release button. Hand-soldered hinge and catch mechanism.
Functional Features
Push-button release catch, spring-loaded or friction hinge, and likely an internal retaining bar if a cigarette case, or a mirror bezel if a compact.
Handle & Grip Details
Features a rounded silver thumb-piece (button) at the bottom center to facilitate opening the lid.
Craftsmanship Details
Requires high skill in both silversmithing (for the fit of the lid) and enameling (to ensure even firing without bubbles or cracks over a large surface area).
Authentication Indicators
Alignment of the engine-turning under the enamel, the presence of multi-part hallmarks on the rim, and the specific 'grain' of the silver tarnish consistent with sterling alloy age.
Origin & Manufacturing
Likely Birmingham, England or possibly Austria/Germany. These regions dominated the market for 'objects of vertu' involving fine enamel and silver.
Era & Period
Edwardian to Art Deco Transition (c. 1910-1925), evidenced by the geometric white border and the popularity of cobalt blue guilloché during this time.
Age Estimate
Circa 1915-1920 based on the color palette and the transition from curvilinear to more structured geometric borders.
Cultural Significance
Such pieces were status symbols found in the handbags or pockets of the upper class, reflecting the 'Bright Young Things' culture of the early 1900s and the social ritual of smoking or public grooming.
Condition Notes
Good antique condition. There is visible tarnish on the exposed silver edges. The enamel appears largely intact, though there is a dark spot in the upper right which may be a deep scratch or a localized inclusion (chip) in the glass.
Value Estimate
$250 - $450 USD depending on the clarity of hallmarks and the presence of any chips in the enamel.
Care & Maintenance
Clean with a soft damp cloth only. Do not use silver dips, as chemicals can seep under the enamel. Avoid dropping, as vitreous enamel is glass and will shatter upon impact.
Similar Pieces
Tiffany & Co. blue enamel compacts (typically more expensive/branded); Austrian silver-gilt and enamel cases (often more ornate floral designs).
Interesting Facts
Guilloché enamel involves a precise geometric engraving on the metal before glass powder is applied and fired. This technique was famously perfected by Peter Carl Fabergé.