Art Deco Sterling Silver and Guilloché Enamel Compact by Thomae Co.
Vanity Set (Powder Compact) · Thomae Co. (Attleboro, Massachusetts), founded 1920, specializing in high-quality enamel work and vanity accessories for retailers like Tiffany & Co.
Pattern: Engine-Turned Scalloped Sunburst with Central Monogram Cartouche
Type
Vanity Set (Powder Compact)
Maker
Thomae Co. (Attleboro, Massachusetts), founded 1920, specializing in high-quality enamel work and vanity accessories for retailers like Tiffany & Co.
Material
Sterling Silver (.925 purity) with possible vermeil (gold wash) interior and glass-based vitreous enamel.
Dimensions
Typical diameter is 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm). Weight is approximately 50-90 grams depending on mirror thickness and internal hardware.
Description
An exquisite example of early 20th-century luxury vanity ware. This compact features a mesmerizing engine-turned 'sunburst' pattern that radiates from a central oval cartouche. The precision of the machine engraving creates a holographic light-play effect characteristic of high-quality guilloché silver work.
Key Features
Precision engine-turned pattern; stylized Art Deco triangular monogram; 'bullseye' concentric ring border.
Material & Composition
Sterling Silver (.925 purity) with possible vermeil (gold wash) interior and glass-based vitreous enamel.
Finish & Decoration
Guilloché engine-turning featuring a radiating scalloped / fan pattern. The surface shows a high-gloss protective finish often applied over enamel or polished metal. The center features a stylized Art Deco initials monogram (KLV) in an oval cartouche.
Hallmarks & Stamps
The item likely bears the Thomae Co. mark (a 'T' superimposed over a larger 'C' or a specific monogram) and a 'STERLING' stamp, usually located on the interior rim or near the hinge.
Construction Details
Machine-turned base metal (die-struck) with hand-applied vitreous enamel. Assembled with a fine pin-hinge and a pressure-latch mechanism.
Functional Features
Spring-latched lid, interior mirror, and original powder sifter or puff attachment (if present). Mechanical hinge is integrated into the rim.
Handle & Grip Details
N/A (Lid-grip lip for opening). Solid silver construction throughout the casing.
Craftsmanship Details
Exhibits top-tier industrial craftsmanship. The symmetry of the radiating scallops is perfect, indicating a well-maintained rose engine lathe. The fitment of the cartouche within the pattern shows high attention to detail.
Authentication Indicators
Monogram style is consistent with 1930s engraving. Pattern depth and uniformity indicate high-quality machine engraving rather than a modern cast reproduction. Wear patterns on the rim are consistent with age.
Origin & Manufacturing
United States of America, specifically Attleboro, MA (The jewelry capital of the world during the early 20th century).
Era & Period
Art Deco (1920-1940). Defined by its geometric precision, industrial engine-turned textures, and clean typography in the monogram.
Age Estimate
Circa 1925-1935, based on the monogram font style and the specific guilloché pattern commonly used during the peak of the vanity case market.
Cultural Significance
Reflects the 'Roaring Twenties' shift in social norms where women began applying makeup in public, leading to the development of jewelry-quality cosmetic cases.
Condition Notes
Very Good to Excellent. The engine turning remains crisp with no visible chips to the enamel (if translucent enamel is present). Light surface scratches (swirls) from handling are visible. Grade: Very Good.
Value Estimate
$150 - $350 USD. Value is driven by the complexity of the engine-turning and the lack of damage to the enamel or mirror. Monogrammed pieces generally sell for slightly less than unmonogrammed ones unless the initials match the buyer.
Care & Maintenance
Clean only with a soft, dry microfiber cloth. Avoid silver dips which can seep into the hinge or under the mirror. Do not use ultrasonic cleaners as they can crack the enamel or loosen the mirror.
Similar Pieces
Elgin American, Webster Co., and Foster & Bailey produced similar compacts. Thomae pieces are generally heavier and feature more intricate engine-turning.
Interesting Facts
The Thomae Company was a premier manufacturer of high-end vanity items, often producing 'white label' goods for top-tier jewelers like Tiffany & Co. and Black, Starr & Frost.