Native American Style Sterling Silver Turquoise and Brass Bison Watch Cuff
Jewelry (Watch Cuff/Bracelet) · Unknown Southwest Artisan; likely Navajo (Diné) or Zuni influenced. Many such pieces are handcrafted by independent silversmiths in the American Southwest rather than major luxury brands.
Pattern: Bison/Longhorn motif with feathered sides and turquoise cabochon; traditional Southwest pan-tribal style.
Type
Jewelry (Watch Cuff/Bracelet)
Maker
Unknown Southwest Artisan; likely Navajo (Diné) or Zuni influenced. Many such pieces are handcrafted by independent silversmiths in the American Southwest rather than major luxury brands.
Material
Likely Sterling Silver (.925) with a decorative brass bison overlay, genuine or stabilized turquoise cabochon, and a stainless steel expansion band for the lower attachment.
Dimensions
Cuff width approx 1.25 to 1.5 inches; total weight including watch and expansion band estimated at 60-90 grams.
Description
A bold and heavy Southwest watch cuff featuring a central brass bison bust framed by ornate silver scrollwork and feathers. The deep patina of the silver provides high contrast against the turquoise sky-blue stone and the golden tones of the brass. It represents a classic example of 'Western' jewelry where functional horology meets traditional tribal aesthetics.
Key Features
Mixed metal overlay (brass on silver), sawtooth bezel set turquoise, and the thematic use of the bison which symbolizes abundance and strength in Plains and Southwest cultures.
Material & Composition
Likely Sterling Silver (.925) with a decorative brass bison overlay, genuine or stabilized turquoise cabochon, and a stainless steel expansion band for the lower attachment.
Finish & Decoration
Oxidized antique finish to highlight recessed details; featuring repoussé-style bison skull/head, hand-stamped or cast feather motifs, and twisted wire/beaded borders commonly associated with Fred Harvey era or modern souvenir styles.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Usually found on the interior of the silver cuff; likely stamped 'Sterling' and possibly an artisan's initials or a shop mark (e.g., 'Bell Trading Post' or an individual hallmark).
Construction Details
Hand-assembled using mixed techniques; the silver portion is likely sand-cast or die-struck, with the brass bison and turquoise bezel soldered onto the main cuff body.
Functional Features
Hollow-lug watch attachment points designed to house a standard spring bar for the watch head; integrated expansion band for adjustable wrist sizing.
Handle & Grip Details
Curved ergonomically shaped silver plates designed to hug the wrist; stainless steel bottom band provides tension for a secure grip.
Craftsmanship Details
Mid-tier commercial artisan quality; the symmetry of the stamping suggests the use of pre-made steel stamps, while the soldering of the bezel shows hand-finished characteristics.
Authentication Indicators
The presence of 'Sterling' stamps on the inner plates would confirm metal content; wear patterns on the edges show solid metal rather than plated base metal.
Origin & Manufacturing
Southwestern United States, specifically the Four Corners region (Arizona, New Mexico). Likely produced in a small workshop or by a cottage industry artisan.
Era & Period
Late 20th Century (c. 1970s-1990s) Revival. The piece utilizes traditional motifs popular since the early 20th century but adapted for modern quartz watch faces.
Age Estimate
Circa 1980-1995. The 'Durasteel'/'Armitron' quartz watch face and the specific patina on the base metal suggest a late 20th-century manufacture.
Cultural Significance
Represents the fusion of indigenous craft with Western utility; while the watch is a modern colonial tool, the cuff reclaims the accessory through traditional iconography.
Condition Notes
Good to Very Good. Significant oxidation/tarnish present (which is often preferred by collectors); slight wear to the brass finish; watch face shows minor scuffs. The expansion band appears functional but may have loose links.
Value Estimate
$75 - $150 USD (Value is primarily in the silver cuff itself; the quartz watch face adds minimal value unless it is a premium brand).
Care & Maintenance
Clean with a soft silver cloth; avoid chemical 'dips' which will strip the intentional darkened oxidation; do not submerge in water due to the turquoise (porous) and the watch movements.
Similar Pieces
Bell Trading Post nickel-silver cuffs (lower value), high-end signed Navajo Tufa-cast cuffs (higher value), or modern imported 'Southwest-style' jewelry made from base metal.
Interesting Facts
Watch cuffs became extremely popular in the 1970s among the 'Urban Cowboy' movement, leading to a surge in Navajo silversmithing specifically for watch attachments.