Vintage OTE Guilloché Dial Cockail Watch with Scalloped Bezel
Jewelry (Wristwatch) · OTE (Orologeria di Torino ed Estero), an Italian-market movement and watch distributor active in the mid-20th century. The dial is marked 'Ancre 17 Rubis', indicating a Swiss-lever movement.
Pattern: Feminine Cocktail Watch Series, Scalloped Petal Bezel
Type
Jewelry (Wristwatch)
Maker
OTE (Orologeria di Torino ed Estero), an Italian-market movement and watch distributor active in the mid-20th century. The dial is marked 'Ancre 17 Rubis', indicating a Swiss-lever movement.
Material
Likely Vermeil (Gold-plated Sterling Silver) or Gold-Filled base metal. Note the green tarnish/oxidation on the lugs and crown, which is characteristic of copper-based alloys or low-purity silver reacting to moisture.
Dimensions
Estimated case diameter of 18-22mm excluding the crown. Weight is approximately 15-25 grams including the movement and integrated strap.
Description
A charming example of a mid-century lady's cocktail watch, this piece features a distinctive scalloped bezel resembling a flower petal arrangement. The dial is elegantly finished with a guilloché sunburst pattern that catches the light, providing a high-end look to a relatively accessible luxury item of its time.
Key Features
OTE diamond logo; 17-jewel movement indicator; scalloped petal-style outer bezel; textured sunburst dial; period-correct expandable or linked bracelet.
Material & Composition
Likely Vermeil (Gold-plated Sterling Silver) or Gold-Filled base metal. Note the green tarnish/oxidation on the lugs and crown, which is characteristic of copper-based alloys or low-purity silver reacting to moisture.
Finish & Decoration
Guilloché sunburst engine-turned dial; polished scalloped 'flower' bezel; gold-toned finish. The style is mid-century feminine decorative jewelry.
Hallmarks & Stamps
The dial is stamped 'OTE' inside a diamond/lozenge logo and 'ANCRE 17 RUBIS'. Metal marks are likely on the interior of the case back or the clasp, potentially including '800' or '925' if silver-based, or 'Plaque Or' if plated.
Construction Details
Machine-stamped case and bezel; die-struck dial; mechanical hand-wound movement with 17 jewel bearings. Features a pressure-fit or snap-on case back.
Functional Features
Mechanical hand-wound movement; 12-hour analog display; acrylic or mineral crystal; knurled winding crown at 3 o'clock position.
Handle & Grip Details
Integrated link bracelet with flattened circular/oval links, typical of cocktail watches from the 1940s-50s. The crown is a standard small-scale friction-fit knurled knob.
Craftsmanship Details
Refined dial work with engine-turning indicates good quality control for the era, while the cast-and-plated case is standard for commercial jewelry watches of the 1950s.
Authentication Indicators
The OTE mark and 'Ancre 17 Rubis' text are consistent with legitimate mid-market Italian imports of the period. Wear patterns on high-friction areas (lugs/crown) are consistent with age.
Origin & Manufacturing
Movement likely Swiss (indicated by 'Ancre' and 'Rubis' terminology); Casing and assembly likely Italian for the domestic Torino market.
Era & Period
Mid-Century Modern / Post-War Era (c. 1945-1960). The scalloped design follows the late Art Deco transition into more fluid, organic mid-century forms.
Age Estimate
Circa 1950-1955 based on the dial typography and the specific scalloped bezel trend popular during the early fifties.
Cultural Significance
Cocktail watches were essential social accessories for women in the mid-20th century, bridging the gap between functional timekeeping and formal jewelry meant for evening wear.
Condition Notes
Fair to Good. Visible oxidation/green corrosion near the lugs and crown suggests the gold plating has worn through to the base metal (brass or silver). The crystal shows light scuffing. Dial remains remarkably clean/unaged.
Value Estimate
$50 - $150 USD. Value is primarily decorative and collectible rather than based on precious metal weight, as the piece shows significant plating wear.
Care & Maintenance
Do not submerge in water (not water-resistant). Use a soft dry cloth. If silver-based, a light silver polishing cloth can be used on exposed metal areas, though care must be taken not to further strip the gold plating.
Similar Pieces
Vintage Tissot, Omega, or Longines cocktail watches from the same era; these would typically feature solid gold cases rather than the gold-plated/vermeil construction seen here.
Interesting Facts
The term 'Ancre 17 Rubis' refers to the 17 synthetic rubies used as bearings to reduce friction in the movement, which was considered the standard for a 'quality' reliable watch in the 1950s.