Navajo Style Sterling Silver Turquoise and Red Coral Chip Inlay Ring
Jewelry (Ring) · Unknown Navajo or Southwest Indigenous artisan. Common for the mid-20th century, many pieces were produced in family workshops or for trading posts without individual hallmarks, though some bear 'Sterling' or localized shop marks.
Pattern: Traditional Southwestern Inlay Shell/Feather motif. This is a classic 'Boho' or 'Fred Harvey era' style design, though likely a post-war commercial variant.
Type
Jewelry (Ring)
Maker
Unknown Navajo or Southwest Indigenous artisan. Common for the mid-20th century, many pieces were produced in family workshops or for trading posts without individual hallmarks, though some bear 'Sterling' or localized shop marks.
Material
Sterling Silver (.925) with authentic or stabilized turquoise and red coral cabochons. The stones appear to be set in sawtooth bezels rather than flush inlay.
Dimensions
Estimated Band Size 7-9 US. Weight approximately 4-7 grams. The face of the ring is approximately 1.5cm in height.
Description
An evocative example of Southwestern silverwork, this ring features two teardrop-shaped stones — sky-blue turquoise and deep red coral — representing the earth and heat. The sterling silver frame is embellished with traditional stampings of feathers on the shoulders, a symbol of prayer and connection to the divine in many Indigenous cultures. The high-contrast oxidation gives the piece a rugged, lived-in character typical of vintage shop-made jewelry.
Key Features
Sawtooth bezel settings, bypass stone arrangement, stamped feather shoulders, and the 'Sky and Blood' color palette of turquoise and coral.
Material & Composition
Sterling Silver (.925) with authentic or stabilized turquoise and red coral cabochons. The stones appear to be set in sawtooth bezels rather than flush inlay.
Finish & Decoration
Oxidized (antiqued) recessed areas to highlight the stamped feather and sunburst motifs on the shoulders. Features sawtooth bezels and silver rain-drop (bead) accents between the two stones.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Visible 'MEX' or '925' stamp on the inner band. Native American pieces from this era often lack a maker's mark but may have a 'Sterling' or 'Ithaca' stamp; if marked 'MEX', it indicates Mexican manufacture in a similar aesthetic.
Construction Details
Die-struck or cast shank with applied bezels. The stones are hand-set into serrated (sawtooth) silver strips which are soldered to the base plate.
Functional Features
Tapered band for comfort; bypass-style arrangement of stones to elongate the look of the finger.
Handle & Grip Details
Not applicable (Jewelry item).
Craftsmanship Details
Moderate quality commercial-grade artisan work. The stamping is consistent though not perfectly symmetrical, indicating hand-tooling rather than automated pressing.
Authentication Indicators
The presence of silver oxidation in the stampings, the unevenness of the sawtooth bezels suggesting hand-finishing, and the specific wear patterns on the interior band suggest an authentic vintage piece rather than a modern mass-produced cast replica.
Origin & Manufacturing
Southwestern United States (Arizona/New Mexico) or Taxco/Northern Mexico. The construction style mimics Navajo silver-smithing traditions of the mid-20th century.
Era & Period
Mid-Century Southwestern (c. 1950-1970). This period saw a massive boom in tourist-trade jewelry across the American Southwest and Northern Mexico.
Age Estimate
Circa 1960s-1970s based on the tool marks and the specific combination of turquoise and coral popular during the 'hippie' movement and Southwestern revival.
Cultural Significance
Represents the 20th-century commercialization of Indigenous art forms, which provided vital economic support for Navajo and Zuni craftsmen while simultaneously influencing global fashion during the 1970s southwestern trend.
Condition Notes
Good vintage condition. Visible surface scratches on the silver band and some tarnish in the deep crevices (desirable for this style). The stones appear secure, though the turquoise shows potential surface dehydration or stabilization wear.
Value Estimate
$40 - $85 USD depending on the specific maker's mark (if any) and the origin (US Navajo vs. Mexican production).
Care & Maintenance
Avoid ultrasonic cleaners as they can damage turquoise and coral. Use a silver polishing cloth only on the high-raised surfaces; do not use liquid dips which will remove the intentional oxidation in the recessed patterns.
Similar Pieces
Bell Trading Post jewelry (often thinner gauge), Zuni needlepoint (taller, thinner stones), or modern Bellarri pieces (high-end faceted stones).
Interesting Facts
The combination of Turquoise and Red Coral is often referred to as 'The Marriage of the Earth and the Sea' in Southwestern jewelry traditions, frequently used as a protective talisman.