Vintage Trifari 'Jelly Belly' Apple Pin/Brooch with Sterling Silver and Faux Cabochon
Jewelry (Brooch/Pin) · Trifari (specifically the 'Trifari Krussman and Fishel' era). Trifari is one of the most respected American costume jewelry manufacturers, known for high-quality craftsmanship that rivaled fine jewelry.
Pattern: Jelly Belly series, Apple motif. These were first introduced in the 1940s by head designer Alfred Philippe.
Type
Jewelry (Brooch/Pin)
Maker
Trifari (specifically the 'Trifari Krussman and Fishel' era). Trifari is one of the most respected American costume jewelry manufacturers, known for high-quality craftsmanship that rivaled fine jewelry.
Material
Sterling Silver (.925) base, often rhodium-plated for a high-shine finish. The center is a lucite (acrylic) cabochon. Some versions feature small pavé-set rhinestones in the leaves.
Dimensions
Standard dimensions for this brooch are approximately 1.5 to 1.75 inches in height. Weight typically ranges between 10-18 grams due to the solid sterling frame.
Description
This iconic Trifari 'Jelly Belly' apple brooch is a pinnacle of 1940s figural jewelry design. It features a luscious, deep red lucite cabochon that mimics the look of a ruby or polished cherry, encased in a gracefully contoured sterling silver frame. The serrated silver leaf adds a naturalistic touch to the whimsical design.
Key Features
Large 'belly' made of polished lucite, sterling silver hallmark necessitated by wartime metal shortages, and the distinctive Trifari stylized leaf design.
Material & Composition
Sterling Silver (.925) base, often rhodium-plated for a high-shine finish. The center is a lucite (acrylic) cabochon. Some versions feature small pavé-set rhinestones in the leaves.
Finish & Decoration
High-polish rhodium finish over sterling silver. The decoration features a figural fruit design with a serrated/textured leaf and a smooth, domed lucite center to mimic the appearance of carved gemstones.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Usually stamped 'Trifari' within a cartouche, often accompanied by 'Sterling' and the 'Pat. Pend.' or patent number. In 1940s pieces, look for the 'Crown Trifari' logo.
Construction Details
Cast sterling silver frame with a bezel-set or prong-set lucite insert. The pin back typically features a safety locking clasp soldered to the reverse.
Functional Features
Single pin stem with a rolling safety clasp. The lucite is designed to be translucent, catching light to illuminate the metal beneath.
Handle & Grip Details
Not applicable; however, the pin stem is usually made of steel for strength, while the rest of the setting is sterling silver.
Craftsmanship Details
Exceptional casting quality with no visible pits or rough edges. The bezel for the lucite is perfectly flush, indicating a high level of hand-finishing after the metal was cast.
Authentication Indicators
The presence of a 'Sterling' mark alongside a known Trifari design is the primary indicator. Genuine Jelly Bellies use lucite or glass, never plastic resin, and the silver work is cast, not stamped thin metal.
Origin & Manufacturing
United States, likely manufactured in Providence, Rhode Island where Trifari’s main workshop was located.
Era & Period
WWII Era / Vintage Costume Jewelry (1940s). The use of primary sterling silver was common during the war because base metals like copper and nickel were restricted for military use.
Age Estimate
Circa 1943–1948. This specific 'jelly belly' style was most prevalent during and immediately following the war years.
Cultural Significance
Represents the 'Golden Age' of American costume jewelry where designers like Alfred Philippe (who previously worked for Cartier) brought fine-jewelry techniques to more accessible materials.
Condition Notes
Very Good. The lucite appears clear without significant 'crazing' (internal cracks). There is minor expected surface tarnish on the sterling silver edges and light scuffs on the cabochon surface.
Value Estimate
$250 - $450 USD. Fruit motifs are highly collectible, though the 'Red Apple' is slightly more common than the rare 'Lucite Poodle' or 'Fish' designs which can exceed $1,000.
Care & Maintenance
Gently wipe silver with a microfiber cloth; avoid chemical silver dips as they can damage or cloudy the lucite 'belly'. Store in a soft pouch to prevent scratching the acrylic surface.
Similar Pieces
Coro 'Jelly Belly' (competitor, often with different motifs), Ming's of Honolulu (used real jade instead of lucite), and modern reproductions (usually made of cheap base metal and plastic).
Interesting Facts
The 'Jelly Belly' name was coined by collectors, not the company. These pieces were so successful that they saved Trifari from financial hardship during the metal-restricted years of WWII.