Mid-Century Rhodium-Plated Sterling Silver and Paste Line Bracelet
Jewelry (Bracelet) · Unidentified manufacturer; typical of American or European costume jewelry makers such as Trifari, Coro, or Eisenberg who utilized sterling silver during WWII and the immediate post-war years.
Pattern: Classic Art Deco-inspired Line or 'Tennis' style bracelet featuring a central emerald-cut focal stone.
Type
Jewelry (Bracelet)
Maker
Unidentified manufacturer; typical of American or European costume jewelry makers such as Trifari, Coro, or Eisenberg who utilized sterling silver during WWII and the immediate post-war years.
Material
Sterling Silver (.925) base metal with high-polish rhodium plating to prevent tarnish; set with emerald-cut and round brilliant-cut glass 'paste' or rhinestones.
Dimensions
Estimated length of 7 inches (17.8 cm); central stone approximately 8mm x 6mm; estimated weight between 10-15 grams.
Description
An elegant sterling silver line bracelet featuring a graduated series of scintillating paste stones. The piece is anchored by a prominent emerald-cut center stone, giving it the appearance of high-end platinum and diamond fine jewelry. The rhodium plating ensures a bright, white-metal finish that complements the icy clarity of the faceted glass.
Key Features
Emerald-cut focal stone; presence of a safety chain; rhodium-plated sterling construction; articulated box-link design.
Material & Composition
Sterling Silver (.925) base metal with high-polish rhodium plating to prevent tarnish; set with emerald-cut and round brilliant-cut glass 'paste' or rhinestones.
Finish & Decoration
Rhodium-plated finish providing a platinum-like luster. The decoration consists of prong-set faceted glass stones; the central stone is an octagon/emerald cut flanked by graduated round stones.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Expected marks (not visible in image) would be located on the box clasp or safety chain ring, likely 'STERLING' or '925', possibly accompanied by a maker's mark like 'THEDA' or 'BOUCHER'.
Construction Details
Articulated individual box links joined by pins to allow flexibility; die-struck stone settings; central focal station is hard-soldered; features a safety chain for secure wear.
Functional Features
Tongue-and-groove box clasp, fold-over safety latch, and a secondary safety chain to prevent loss if the clasp fails.
Handle & Grip Details
N/A; jewelry item. The clasp serves as the primary manual interface.
Craftsmanship Details
Semi-industrial; while the links are die-struck, the stones are hand-set with prongs and the assembly of the safety chain requires manual soldering.
Authentication Indicators
The construction of the safety chain and the style of the box clasp are period-correct. The tarnish visible on some edges where rhodium has worn away reveals the sterling silver underneath.
Origin & Manufacturing
Likely United States or United Kingdom; mass-produced in specialized jewelry workshops using precision die-striking and manual stone setting.
Era & Period
Late Art Deco to Retro/Mid-Century Modern (c. 1935-1950). The geometric central stone reflects lingering Deco influence, while the prong settings suggest 1940s manufacturing.
Age Estimate
Circa 1940-1948. Many makers switched to sterling silver during WWII because base metals (brass/copper) were diverted for the war effort.
Cultural Significance
Represents the democratization of luxury, allowing women of the mid-20th century to wear 'The Diamond Look' for evening events and social gatherings during a time of economic transition.
Condition Notes
Fair to Good condition. One stone is notably missing from a link near the center; several stones show 'graying' or 'foiling failure' (moisture damage to the reflective backing). Surface scratches on the metal are consistent with age.
Value Estimate
$45 - $85 USD in current condition. A fully intact piece with all original clear stones would range from $120 - $175 USD depending on the maker's mark.
Care & Maintenance
Do not submerge in liquid cleaners or dips as moisture will ruin the foil backing of the stones. Clean with a dry, soft silver polishing cloth only. Store in a dry environment to prevent further fogging of the glass.
Similar Pieces
Tiffany & Co. diamond line bracelets (the high-end inspiration); Eisenberg Ice sterling series (more heavily built); contemporary Swarovski tennis bracelets (machine-set, non-silver).
Interesting Facts
During World War II, costume jewelry reached a height of 'preciousness' because manufacturers were legally required to use silver rather than industrial base metals, making 1940s pieces highly collectible today.