Vintage Japanese Saga Nishiki Gilt-Silver and Silk Brocade Evening Bag
Evening Bag / Jewelry Accessory · Saga Nishiki (indicated by the interior label 九百佐賀錦 - 900 Saga Nishiki). This brand refers to a traditional Japanese weaving technique originating in the Saga Prefecture, specifically the former Kashima domain, famous for using gold and silver leaf paper as 'thread.'
Pattern: Traditional Woven Brocade (900-thread count high-grade Saga Nishiki). Modern production, likely mid-to-late Showa era.
Type
Evening Bag / Jewelry Accessory
Maker
Saga Nishiki (indicated by the interior label 九百佐賀錦 - 900 Saga Nishiki). This brand refers to a traditional Japanese weaving technique originating in the Saga Prefecture, specifically the former Kashima domain, famous for using gold and silver leaf paper as 'thread.'
Material
Gilt silver and gold lacquered paper (washi) woven with silk. The frame appears to be gold-plated brass or low-purity 'fine-gold' finish white metal. The interior is lined with golden-hued synthetic silk or satin.
Dimensions
Estimated 18cm (W) x 14cm (H) x 4cm (D). Weight is approximately 250-350 grams. Typical of a 'Wasou' handbag designed for use with a Kimono.
Description
A stunning example of Japanese textile art, this Saga Nishiki bag blends the worlds of jewelry and fashion. By weaving precious metal-coated paper with high-quality silk, the craftsman creates a shimmering, architectural surface that glows in low light. The intricate gold filigree clasp adds a focal point of jewelry-grade metalwork to the structural elegance of the bag.
Key Features
900-thread count Saga Nishiki label; filigree openwork clasp; metallic-paper weave technique; Kimono-friendly design.
Material & Composition
Gilt silver and gold lacquered paper (washi) woven with silk. The frame appears to be gold-plated brass or low-purity 'fine-gold' finish white metal. The interior is lined with golden-hued synthetic silk or satin.
Finish & Decoration
The exterior features a 'Nishiki' weave, which uses gold and silver colored leaf paper cut into fine strips as the warp and silk thread as the weft. Decoration includes a filigree/openwork gold-plated spherical clasp (kougai-style) and geometric and floral patterns in the weave.
Hallmarks & Stamps
The interior label '九百佐賀錦' (900 Saga Nishiki). This indicates a high-density weave (900 strips). There are no visible western-style silver hallmarks (like .925) because the metal is incorporated as foil-treated paper rather than solid plate.
Construction Details
Hand-loomed weaving of paper and silk. The frame is machine-stamped with hand-fitted hinges and a pressure-latch clasp. The bag utilizes a structured gusseted interior for 'pop-out' expansion.
Functional Features
Single compartment with a flat interior pocket for a small mirror or business cards. A custom filigree orb clasp and braided metallic silk handle.
Handle & Grip Details
Fixed-length braided handle composed of metallic silk cord (kumihimo style), attached via gold-tone ring hinges to the main frame.
Craftsmanship Details
High-level hand-looming. The precision of the 900-strip count is an indicator of top-tier quality, as lower-grade bags use wider, less detailed strips (e.g., 500 or 700 grade).
Authentication Indicators
The woven label using standardized kanji for Saga Nishiki, the consistent spacing of the 'paper threads,' and the quality of the gold plating on the clasp.
Origin & Manufacturing
Kashima, Saga Prefecture, Japan. These are manufactured according to a Edo-period tradition that was revived in the early 20th century.
Era & Period
Late Showa Era (1970s–1980s). This style became highly popular for formal weddings and tea ceremonies during this period.
Age Estimate
Circa 1975-1990. The label typography and interior fabric condition suggest a late 20th-century production.
Cultural Significance
Essential accessory for high-formal Japanese 'Wasou' (kimono) attire. It represents 'Miyabi' (elegance) and 'Shikki' (texture), serving as a status symbol at weddings.
Condition Notes
Excellent condition. The interior lining is clean with no visible makeup stains. The metal frame shows minimal tarnishing. The woven exterior appears tight with no loose metallic threads. Overall Grade: Excellent.
Value Estimate
$150 - $450 USD depending on the specific retailer and if it includes the original documented box. Secondary market prices for 900-grade are stable but niche.
Care & Maintenance
Never use silver polish. Wipe metal parts with a dry microfiber cloth. Keep in a paulownia wood box or breathable cotton bag to prevent the metallic paper from oxidizing or peeling. Use silica gel packets to prevent humidity damage to the silk base.
Similar Pieces
Tatsumura Silk bags (which focus more on pure silk brocades) and contemporary Zoushi bags which may use lower-quality synthetic foils.
Interesting Facts
The 'thread' is made by pasting gold or silver leaf onto Japanese washi paper, then cutting it into strips as thin as 0.3mm to be woven into the silk.