Mid-Century Modern Sterling Silver and Amber Enamel Love Knot Brooch
Jewelry (Brooch/Pin) · Unknown Scandinavian or Mexican Silversmith (likely David-Andersen, Hans Hansen, or echoing the Margot de Taxco style). These makers are renowned for blending high-purity silver with vibrant guilloché or vitreous enamel work.
Pattern: Love Knot / Entwined Ribbons. This is a classic 'Infinity' or 'Knot' design popular in Mid-Century jewelry collections spanning from 1950 to 1970.
Type
Jewelry (Brooch/Pin)
Maker
Unknown Scandinavian or Mexican Silversmith (likely David-Andersen, Hans Hansen, or echoing the Margot de Taxco style). These makers are renowned for blending high-purity silver with vibrant guilloché or vitreous enamel work.
Material
Sterling Silver (.925) with Vitreous Enamel. Likely composed of solid sterling silver wire or cast forms with a glass-based enamel inlay in a warm amber or cognac hue.
Dimensions
Approximately 3.0 cm to 4.5 cm in diameter. Estimated weight: 12-18 grams. This is a standard size for a mid-sized lapel or scarf brooch.
Description
A striking example of Mid-Century modernist jewelry, this brooch features an intricate 'Love Knot' motif. The design consists of overlapping ribbons of sterling silver, filled with a rich, translucent amber-colored enamel that catches the light to reveal the metallic silver beneath. The piece balances organic flow with mathematical precision, making it a versatile accessory for both vintage enthusiasts and contemporary wearers.
Key Features
3D interlaced ribbon geometry, translucent vitreous enamel, polished sterling silver tubular borders, and a classic modernist abstract form.
Material & Composition
Sterling Silver (.925) with Vitreous Enamel. Likely composed of solid sterling silver wire or cast forms with a glass-based enamel inlay in a warm amber or cognac hue.
Finish & Decoration
Polished high-shine silver finish with hand-applied translucent enamel. The decoration is geometric and structural, featuring overlapping tubular or ribbon-like silver bands that create a sense of three-dimensional depth.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Usually found on the reverse pin stem or the back of the knot. Look for '925', 'STERLING', or maker-specific logos like the twin 'S' for Sterling, or an eagle mark if Mexican. Given the blur, specific marks are not visible but are required for definitive origin.
Construction Details
Cast and assembled. The individual loops were likely cast using the lost-wax method and then hard-soldered together before the enamel was fired in a kiln at high temperatures.
Functional Features
Standard safety pin stem and C-clasp or trombone clasp on the reverse. The open-work design allows the garment color to peek through the spaces between the silver ribbons.
Handle & Grip Details
N/A (Jewelry item). The fastening mechanism acts as the primary hardware, usually made of nickel silver or sterling for strength.
Craftsmanship Details
High-quality application of enamel—it is level with the silver walls and lacks air bubbles. The soldering of the knot intersections is clean, showing no excess 'blobs' of repair material, indicating professional bench-work.
Authentication Indicators
The depth of the enamel and the way it sits within the 'cells' of the silver suggest genuine vitreous enamel rather than modern resin. Appropriate patina in the recessed areas between the knots supports the age estimate.
Origin & Manufacturing
Likely Norway (Oslo) or Denmark, or potentially Taxco, Mexico. Both regions excelled in this specific combination of sterling silver and translucent enamel during the mid-20th century.
Era & Period
Mid-Century Modern (1950-1965). The clean lines, abstract knot form, and use of colored enamel are hallmarks of post-war modernist jewelry design.
Age Estimate
Circa 1955-1965. The style of the knot and the specific shade of amber enamel are highly indicative of this decade.
Cultural Significance
Represents the democratization of luxury in the mid-20th century, where designer silver jewelry from Scandinavia and Mexico became status symbols for the emerging middle class.
Condition Notes
Very Good. The enamel appears intact without visible chips (which are common in these pieces). The silver shows light surface scratches consistent with age. Metal shows a bright polish with minimal tarnish.
Value Estimate
$85 - $225 USD. Value is higher if a signature from a known maker like David-Andersen or Margot de Taxco is present on the reverse.
Care & Maintenance
Clean only with a soft, damp cloth. Avoid silver 'dips' or harsh chemicals which can damage the enamel. Use a silver polishing cloth for the metal edges only. Store in a padded box to prevent the glass-like enamel from chipping.
Similar Pieces
Georg Jensen 'Knot' series (usually plain silver), David-Andersen enamel butterfly or leaf brooches (different form, same materials), or Tiffany & Co. Somerset collection.
Interesting Facts
Knot designs in jewelry traditionally symbolize eternal love or friendship. During the 1950s, enamel jewelry became a way for women to add 'pops' of color to their wardrobes in an era dominated by grey and navy suits.