Chinese Export Cloisonné Enamel and Silver-Gilt Bangle Bracelet
Jewelry (Bangle Bracelet) · Unknown Chinese Export Workmaster; often produced in regional workshops in Beijing or Canton (Guangzhou) for the Western market.
Pattern: Traditional Floral and Foliate Scroll with Butterfly/Mask Motifs
Type
Jewelry (Bangle Bracelet)
Maker
Unknown Chinese Export Workmaster; often produced in regional workshops in Beijing or Canton (Guangzhou) for the Western market.
Material
Silver-Gilt (Vermeil) or High-Grade Silver (typically .900 to .925 purity) with vitreous enamel. Base may be brass/bronze in lower-tier examples, but the silver coloring and wear suggest a silver-gilt construction.
Dimensions
Estimated 2.5 - 3.5 cm in width; approximately 6.5 cm internal diameter. Weight estimated at 40-70 grams depending on metal thickness.
Description
A striking example of early 20th-century Chinese export jewelry, this bangle features intricate cloisonné enamel work. Vibrant turquoise and cobalt blues serve as the backdrop for stylized floral motifs and what appears to be a butterfly or mask-like centerpiece in white enamel. The exposed metal rims show a warm patina, typical of silver that has been gilded and worn over time.
Key Features
Vibrant polychrome enameling; delicate wire-work cloisons; solid enamel interior lining; high-wall bangle profile.
Material & Composition
Silver-Gilt (Vermeil) or High-Grade Silver (typically .900 to .925 purity) with vitreous enamel. Base may be brass/bronze in lower-tier examples, but the silver coloring and wear suggest a silver-gilt construction.
Finish & Decoration
Cloisonné technique (wire-cell enamel), featuring blue, green, and white enamels. Surfaces show hand-applied wires forming floral patterns on a turquoise-blue ground. Interior appears to be enameled in a solid cobalt blue.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Commonly stamped 'SILVER' or 'CHINA' on the inner rim, though often unmarked. Lack of European hallmarks suggests origin outside of British/Continental assay systems.
Construction Details
Hand-formed band with soldered wire 'cloisons' (cells) filled with ground glass paste and fired in a kiln. Polished flat to reveal the wire edges.
Functional Features
Rigid, non-hinged circular form designed to be slipped over the hand onto the wrist.
Handle & Grip Details
N/A; jewelry item.
Craftsmanship Details
Displays high-quality hand-chasing of the wires and precise enamel filling. The flush-polished surface indicates professional workshop production rather than modern mass-produced cast imitations.
Authentication Indicators
Traditional wire-work technique; characteristic Chinese Export blue enamel palette; wear patterns on the gilding consistent with long-term handling.
Origin & Manufacturing
China, utilizing traditional cloisonné enamel techniques combined with Western jewelry forms.
Era & Period
Late Qing Dynasty or Early Republic Period (c. 1890-1930); matches typical Chinese Export jewelry styles for the Western 'Chinoiserie' market.
Age Estimate
Circa 1900-1920. The color palette and wire work are consistent with early 20th-century export pieces.
Cultural Significance
Represents the fusion of traditional Chinese craftsmanship with Western fashion demands, reflecting the 'Export' period's economic and cultural exchange.
Condition Notes
Good vintage condition. Visible surface tarnish/oxidation on the exposed silver-gilt rims. Minor enamel pitting and micro-scratches consistent with age. No major 'bruises' or large chips visible in the enamel cells.
Value Estimate
$150 - $350 USD depending on metal purity confirmation and specific maker marks. Condition of enamel is the primary value driver.
Care & Maintenance
Clean only with a soft, damp cloth. Avoid silver dips or chemicals which can damage the porous enamel or dissolve the gilding. Store in a padded box to prevent impact chips.
Similar Pieces
Japanese Shippo enamel bangles (usually more naturalistic); later mid-century Chinese export bangles (often brass-based with thinner wires).
Interesting Facts
Cloisonné was originally known in China as 'Jingtai Blue,' as the technique reached its height during the Jingtai reign of the Ming Dynasty. These bracelets became highly fashionable in the West during the early 20th century as travel to the East increased.