Soviet Era 875 Silver Vermeil Solitaire Ring with Amber/Synthetic Stone
Jewelry (Ring) · Unknown Soviet Union State Jewelry Workshop (identified by the star and hammer-and-sickle motif within the hallmark), representing the centralized manufacturing period of the USSR.
Pattern: Classic Mid-Century Soviet Solitaire; high-profile basket setting with a tapered shank.
Type
Jewelry (Ring)
Maker
Unknown Soviet Union State Jewelry Workshop (identified by the star and hammer-and-sickle motif within the hallmark), representing the centralized manufacturing period of the USSR.
Material
875 Silver (87.5% purity) with a gold-wash finish (Vermeil). The stone appears to be Baltic Amber or a contemporary synthetic corundum/glass typical of the era.
Dimensions
Standard ladies' cocktail ring size (Approx. US 7-8). Estimated weight 3.5–5.0 grams including the stone.
Description
A classic example of Soviet utilitarian luxury, this 875 silver ring features a rich gold-plate finish and a large honey-colored stone. The piece balances the starkness of Soviet industrial design with the traditional Russian preference for amber-toned stones, resulting in a bold cocktail ring that served as a symbol of status during the USSR's mid-to-late 20th century.
Key Features
875 silver fineness mark (higher than 800 but lower than sterling 925); star-enclosed hammer and sickle hallmark; vibrant vermeil/gold-wash durability.
Material & Composition
875 Silver (87.5% purity) with a gold-wash finish (Vermeil). The stone appears to be Baltic Amber or a contemporary synthetic corundum/glass typical of the era.
Finish & Decoration
Polished gold vermeil finish over silver. The decoration is minimalist and industrial, featuring a high-sitting prong or bezel-hybrid setting typical of 1950s-1970s Eastern Bloc jewelry.
Hallmarks & Stamps
The shank features a rectangular punch containing a five-pointed star with a hammer and sickle (the Soviet hallmark for silver post-1958) and the number '875' indicating silver fineness.
Construction Details
Cast shank and setting with hand-finished assembly. The setting is integrated into the band with a high arched crown to elevate the stone for maximum light entry.
Functional Features
Single stone solitaire setting; tapered shank for comfort; open-back setting to allow cleaning of the gemstone underside.
Handle & Grip Details
Tapered band (shank), smooth interior with hallmark situated on the lower inner curve for minimal wear against the finger.
Craftsmanship Details
Machine-cast with manual stone setting. The hallmark strike is exceptionally deep and clean, a hallmark of Soviet state-regulated quality control.
Authentication Indicators
Hallmark consistency with Soviet state standards; the specific font of the '875' stamp; the color of the gold wash which is often slightly more copper-toned (rose) than Western 14k gold.
Origin & Manufacturing
USSR (Soviet Union), likely manufactured in one of the major jewelry hubs such as Moscow, Leningrad, or Riga (Latvian SSR), famous for amber production.
Era & Period
Soviet Era / Mid-Century Modern (1958-1991). The star hallmark specifically places it after 1958, following the transition from the worker's head mark.
Age Estimate
Circa 1960-1980. The hallmark style and the high-profile setting are characteristic of the late Brezhnev era of jewelry production.
Cultural Significance
Reflects the state-controlled economy where jewelry designs were standardized across factories. These pieces were often the only accessible form of 'fine' jewelry for Soviet citizens and are now highly collectible as 'Soviet Vintage'.
Condition Notes
Very Good. The gold plating (vermeil) shows slight thinning on the outer shank due to wear. The hallmarks remain crisp and legible. The stone shows minor surface abrasions consistent with age.
Value Estimate
$40 - $120 USD. Value is driven by the collector market for Soviet memorabilia and the size/quality of the center stone rather than raw silver weight.
Care & Maintenance
Avoid chemical silver dips as they will strip the thin gold vermeil layer; clean with mild soapy water and a soft cloth only. Store in a dry place to prevent the silver base from oxidizing under the plating.
Similar Pieces
Polish 800 silver amber jewelry; Finnish 925 silver mid-century pieces. Soviet pieces are distinguished by the 'star' hallmark which is unique to the USSR.
Interesting Facts
In the Soviet Union, 875 silver was the standard for high-quality jewelry and hollowware, whereas 925 was rarely used until more contemporary times. Amber rings like this were popular souvenirs from the Baltic 'Amber Coast' states.