Indian Kundan Guluband Choker with Meenakari back-detailing, Sterling Silver Gilt
Jewelry (Necklace/Choker Set) · Artisan-crafted workshop, likely Jaipur-based. While no specific designer mark is visible, the style reflects the high-end handicraft traditions of Rajasthani silversmiths who specialize in traditional Mughal-inspired regalia.
Pattern: Traditional Kundan-Jadau; featuring floral clusters (phool) and teardrop (pepali) drops. Not a corporate pattern, but a cultural design staple of North India.
Type
Jewelry (Necklace/Choker Set)
Maker
Artisan-crafted workshop, likely Jaipur-based. While no specific designer mark is visible, the style reflects the high-end handicraft traditions of Rajasthani silversmiths who specialize in traditional Mughal-inspired regalia.
Material
Sterling Silver (.925) base metal with high-karat Gold Vermeil (gilt). The piece features glass stones (Kundan) or polki-simulants, seed pearls, and likely red/orange enamel (Meenakari).
Dimensions
Estimated length 12-14 inches with adjustable dori (cord). Weight approximately 80-120 grams including stones; substantial 'statement' proportions for formal wear.
Description
This magnificent silver-gilt choker is a masterclass in Indian ornamental tradition. Known as a 'Guluband,' it features multiple tiers of Kundan-set stones that mimic the brilliance of diamonds. The central pendant is shaped in the classic 'Chand' (moon) motif, draped with seed pearls. The reverse side, though not visible, typically features vibrant Meenakari enamel, making the piece a double-sided work of art. It embodies the opulence associated with Indian bridal jewelry, offering the look of solid gold at the weight and price point of sterling silver.
Key Features
Crescent moon central motif, articulated rectangular panels, foil-backed kundan stones, seed pearl fringe, and gold-over-silver composition.
Material & Composition
Sterling Silver (.925) base metal with high-karat Gold Vermeil (gilt). The piece features glass stones (Kundan) or polki-simulants, seed pearls, and likely red/orange enamel (Meenakari).
Finish & Decoration
High-polish gold finish with extensive decorative techniques including Kundan stone-setting (foil-backed), Meenakari (hand-painted enamel on the reverse), and granular filigree work. Features a crescent-shaped central pendant (Chandbali style).
Hallmarks & Stamps
The image does not show the reverse side where hallmarks would typically be. If authenticated sterling, a small '925' stamp is usually located on the clasp or pendant reverse. Indian silver often lacks formal assay marks unless intended for international export.
Construction Details
Hand-wrought and assembled. It consists of multiple articulated panels linked by jump rings to allow the choker to contour to the neck. Stones are set using the traditional 'Jadau' method where gold/silver foil is pressed around the stone.
Functional Features
Includes a traditional adjustable silk/metallic thread dori (sliding knot cord) for sizing. Articulated joints provide flexibility. The central crescent pendant is likely detachable or a focal 'Maang' element.
Handle & Grip Details
Not applicable to jewelry; however, the 'Dori' (closure cord) is made of gold-tone silken thread with a sliding adjustment bead for secure fastening.
Craftsmanship Details
High-quality hand-assembly. The articulation between panels is smooth, and the stone alignment is consistent. This is a high-grade 'silver-kundan' piece, far superior to base-metal imitations.
Authentication Indicators
Symmetry in stone setting, the specific texture of the 'Jadau' foil around the glass, and the presence of a traditional adjustable cord. A '925' or 'Sterling' mark is expected on the reverse or the small metal triangle connecting the cord.
Origin & Manufacturing
Origin: India, likely Jaipur (Rajasthan). Manufactured in a traditional jewelry workshop using millennia-old techniques of stone-setting and enameling unique to the region.
Era & Period
Contemporary Revival/Traditional (Late 20th to 21st Century). The design is rooted in the Mughal Empire aesthetic (16th-19th century) but manufactured recently for the wedding/festive market.
Age Estimate
Circa 2010-present. The brightness of the gold plating and the style of the price tags suggest modern retail stock rather than an antique heirloom.
Cultural Significance
A symbol of 'Sringar' (the art of adornment), this style of jewelry is an essential part of the 'Solah Shringar' (16 ornaments) for Indian brides, representing prosperity and tradition.
Condition Notes
Excellent condition. The gold plating appears bright without significant 'bleeding' of the silver underneath. All stones and pearls appear intact. The adjustable cord shows no fraying. Overall Grade: Excellent.
Value Estimate
$250 - $450 USD. The price tag visible in the photo ($9.99 for a different item nearby) suggests this is in a thrift/resale environment where it may be significantly undervalued if it is indeed sterling-gilt.
Care & Maintenance
Do not use silver dips or liquid cleaners as they will destroy the foil backing behind the stones and the enamel. Clean only with a dry, soft microfiber cloth. Store in a plastic zip-lock bag away from moisture and perfumes.
Similar Pieces
Costume jewelry versions made of brass (will have 'tinned' or duller reverse), Solid Gold Jadau (significantly more expensive/heavy), and 22k Gold-Plated Copper pieces.
Interesting Facts
The Kundan technique is one of the oldest forms of jewelry making in India, specifically refined in the royal courts of Rajasthan. Unlike Western prongs, stones are held by purified gold/silver foil compressed at room temperature.